Anthony Vaccarello is not a provocative person. In the seven -year time as the creative director of Saint Laurent, the Italian designer left his own mark on this traditional French brand, although many naked and sexy shapes, and Yves Saint Laurent’s originality of color and shape’s original sex use Essence
However, for the brand’s 23 -year summer series, Vaccarello hides more things -to some extent. The creative director did not expose the skin directly, but turned to pure sweater to show the tight appearance next year.
Vaccarello mentioned the dancer and choreographer Martha Graham and a routine in 1930. She was wrapped in a sheath from head to toe. He also paid attention to the cooperation between Saint Laurent and Claude Lalanne in 1969, especially a hooded transparent chiffon dress. Finally, the designer paid attention to the “Capuche” item in the mid -1980s, especially the high -end customized YSL series in the spring and summer of 1985, and the fabric covered the model’s head. (The founder’s last performance in 2002 also reorganized this idea.)
As a result, the appearance of the 23 -year summer was stretched, transparent but covered, and the appearance of a male coat and the launch long skirt and pajamas style of the silk sweater or vest dress. The side of the skirt is very long, so that the shoes are rarely appeared. Except for some toe ring sandals and high -shoe light shoes, it uses a neutral or eggplant or caramel -colored appearance.
After Mahsa Amini died in the hands of the Iranian police, the headscarf became the center of Iran and the world’s fatal protests, and Saint Laurent would re -use “Capuche”, which may be considered numb. However, it can also represent the era we live, because women’s bodies have once again become a battlefield for generations and cultural changes. Vaccarello’s explanation of showing the body -being covered but still visible and apologetic -of course, it is recognition of this point.
